Thursday, January 5, 2012

Xieng Khuang and the Plain of Jars

On January 3-5, we flew with Andy to Xieng Khuang Province in Northeast Laos. There are 7 sites of jars that have been cleared of UXO's (Unexploded Ordnances) out of 90 that have been discovered. There are 3 sites that can be visited. The jars are scattered over 100's of square kilometers. This is an area of Laos that we have wanted to visit for several years.

No one knows for certain the origin of the jars. However, there are some theories. These include:
1. They were used as burial jars from 500 BC to9 200 AD which is the Southeast Asia Iron Age. They were made from a conglomerate of stone akin to sandstone and a few made from granite. Archeologists have confirmed that the jars are carved from solid rock.
2. The locals theory is that the were made to brew rice wine to celebrate the local peoples 6th C. liberation from cruel overlords. They believe that the jars cast from a mixture of buffalo skin, sand, water and molasses.

Site 1 has the most and largest jars. It contains 334 jars or fragments.







This one of the taller ones.














This is the largest jar, Hai Jeuam. It weighs 6 tons and is 2.5 meters high (8.2 feet).






















This site has 2 levels and the theory is that the more important persons were buried at the higher site. This is a view of the lower site.



The cave was believed to house the kiln to form the jars. This is the locals theory. The cave was also used during the war by the locals to for protection from the heavy bombing in the area during the Vietnam War.






























No one knows if the jars had lids. But, we occasionally saw some jars with lids and some lids on the ground or partially buried in the ground.


Site 2 was 10 kilometers from the main paved road. Sites 2 and 3 can only be visited in the dry season since the roads are muddy and slippery. Also, the roads are covered with leaches in the rainy season.

At site 2, there are 94 jars or fragments. It is located on two hilltops in a pine forest. There are more unusual shapes at this site - square, rectangular besides the circular.









The tree grew through a crack in the stone jar.











At the entrance to Site 3, we had lunch at a local noodle restaurant. Note the stairway entrance. Ruthann posed with the owner/cook.


Large bowls of chicken pho (noodle soup) were enjoyed. We wiped off the chopsticks and spoons with our toilet paper napkins. Note the size of the bowls. The owner said that all vegetables were grown organic.

We did a 10 minute walk to Site 3. At this site there are 150 jars and fragments.


You'll notice that we were wearing jackets. The temperature got down to 46 at night and during the day, it was cloudy and some wind. Our guide said that it got down to 35 degrees two weeks before we came and that some water buffalo had died.

We did have a guide who spoke English. The driver was excellent.

1 comment:

Martha Helmuth said...

How these huge and heavy jars were made, that they are still there, that the local folks know something about them is just mind-boggling. We don't know anything about "old" in the US -- and we think we're so smart! Thanks for the photos.